Orthoclase moonstones display a phenomenon known as adularescence aka schiller aka that otherworldly blue glow. Moonstones are bathed in the lore of many ancient (and semi-ancient) cultures. The Ancient Greeks called it Aphroselene for Aphrodite, the Romans believed that the goddess Diana could be seen within it, and Europeans of the Middle Ages believed that gazing into a moonstone would bring about prophetic dreams. At the turn of the 20th century, the Art Nouveau movement and its obsessions with the organic and ephemeral made gauzy gems like moonstone very popular in jewelry. These early 20th century earrings are fashioned in 14k gold and set with the killer combination of bright old European cut diamonds and oval moonstone cabochons with a spectacular blue sheen.
EDWARDIAN (1900 - 1910)
The Edwardian era gets its name from King Edward VII’s brief reign at the beginning of the 20th century. His Danish bride Alexandra was young, lovely, and fashionable; with a taste for trendy pieces rendered in diamonds and pearls. The jewelry tended toward airy lightness, often in the form of lacy filigree. The world was changing rapidly, but lots of the jewelry still reflected the Victorian ideals of decorum and femininity. Ancient Roman and Greek influences remained popular.
“White” jewelry became popular as plentiful deposits of platinum were discovered in Russia and improved smelting technology made it possible for jewelers to work in the noble metal. Platinum was seldom used by jewelers in earlier years owing both to its scarcity and high melting point. The jewelry trade took advantage of its rigid strength to create opulent openwork settings for increasingly brilliant diamonds. The old European cut was perfected, rounder and squatter than old mine. This took stone-cutting one step closer to the mathematically perfect round brilliant cut, which is the most popular diamond cut today. The now-iconic square Asscher cut was patented in 1902.
Hot on the heels of platinum, the alloy mixture that produces white gold was formulated and patented in 1915 in New York City. With Europe in the grip of WW1, the American jewelry industry was poised to become a world leader and innovator.