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Georgian Emerald and Old Mine Cut Diamond Ring

$2,400.00
About Details History
Emerald, the most prized member of the beryl family, has been regarded as a mystical stone since antiquity. According to legend, one could see into the future by placing an emerald under the tongue. Worn on the person, it could protect against evil spells and cure diseases. Magical and curative properties aside, it has been prized for millennia for it's lush color. The verdant gemstone in this Georgian ring is flanked by two old mine cut diamonds in rub over settings. The shoulders are rendered in an opulent foliate design. The standard treatment for gemstones in the Georgian period was to mount them in closed settings and back them in foil. This distinctive style of stone setting is a hallmark of Georgian jewelry, but it requires the wearer to take a little extra care - it's best to remove this ring (or any ring with closed settings) when showering or washing dishes, because the settings are closed they can trap liquid which may cause the foil backing beneath the stones to oxidize and darken. Please keep in mind that this ring is very old and may not be suitable for every day wear. 

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  • Materials: 22k gold (tests), 5.3 x 5.8mm emerald, two approximately 2.3mm old mine cut diamonds 
  • Age: c/ 1800
  • Condition: Very good
  • Size: 7, can be resized for an additional fee of $90; 6.2mm head, 1.2mm hoop
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GEORGIAN (1714 - 1837) The Georgian Era was named for the English Kings George I, II, III and IV. Within the powerful nations of France and England, fine gemstone jewelry was worn only by the extremely wealthy, and the styles were regal and ornate. As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut”, a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut. The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste—an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass—was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.
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About Details History
Emerald, the most prized member of the beryl family, has been regarded as a mystical stone since antiquity. According to legend, one could see into the future by placing an emerald under the tongue. Worn on the person, it could protect against evil spells and cure diseases. Magical and curative properties aside, it has been prized for millennia for it's lush color. The verdant gemstone in this Georgian ring is flanked by two old mine cut diamonds in rub over settings. The shoulders are rendered in an opulent foliate design. The standard treatment for gemstones in the Georgian period was to mount them in closed settings and back them in foil. This distinctive style of stone setting is a hallmark of Georgian jewelry, but it requires the wearer to take a little extra care - it's best to remove this ring (or any ring with closed settings) when showering or washing dishes, because the settings are closed they can trap liquid which may cause the foil backing beneath the stones to oxidize and darken. Please keep in mind that this ring is very old and may not be suitable for every day wear. 

less
more

  • Materials: 22k gold (tests), 5.3 x 5.8mm emerald, two approximately 2.3mm old mine cut diamonds 
  • Age: c/ 1800
  • Condition: Very good
  • Size: 7, can be resized for an additional fee of $90; 6.2mm head, 1.2mm hoop
less
more
GEORGIAN (1714 - 1837) The Georgian Era was named for the English Kings George I, II, III and IV. Within the powerful nations of France and England, fine gemstone jewelry was worn only by the extremely wealthy, and the styles were regal and ornate. As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut”, a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut. The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste—an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass—was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.
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more