This spectacular mourning ring was dedicated just six months shy of Queen Victoria's ascent to the throne. Made in 18k yellow gold, the face is set with twelve luminous pearls encircling a black enamel center plate and .15ct cushion cut diamond in a blackened silver setting. The wide, tripartite shoulders - rendered in high rococo style - taper into a slim, grooved hoop. The obverse of the head is set with a glass-fronted locket which holds a lock (or locks) of hair. The ring is engraved for a husband and wife who died within days of one another. The inscription at the head reads: "Mary Baldry Ob 27 Jan 1837 aet 76", and divided between the two shoulders: "J.P. Baldry Ob 22 Jan 1837 aet 73." This piece is in pristine antique condition and is fully hallmarked for gold content, origin (London), and year of assay (1836).
GEORGIAN (1714 - 1837)
The Georgian Era was named for the English Kings George I, II, III and IV. Within the powerful nations of France and England, fine gemstone jewelry was worn only by the extremely wealthy, and the styles were regal and ornate. As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available.
A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut”, a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut. The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste—an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass—was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts.
Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.