This Edwardian-era ring is made in warm rosy 9k gold with an earthy turquoise matrix cabochon. Pieces of turquoise marked with contrasting veins or patches, known as "matrix", show the remnants of the rock that hosted the turquoise as it formed over centuries. Bright, blue, unblemished turquoise jewelry was exceedingly popular throughout the 19th century, however, in the 1880s, the Arts and Crafts Movement emerged and jewelers from this school had their focus on quality and a proclivity for unconventional stones such as turquoise matrix. This turn-of-the-last-century ring makes splendid use of of the irregular, variegated turquoise popularized by the aforementioned movement.
EDWARDIAN (1900 - 1910)
The Edwardian era gets its name from King Edward VII’s brief reign at the beginning of the 20th century. His Danish bride Alexandra was young, lovely, and fashionable; with a taste for trendy pieces rendered in diamonds and pearls. The jewelry tended toward airy lightness, often in the form of lacy filigree. The world was changing rapidly, but lots of the jewelry still reflected the Victorian ideals of decorum and femininity. Ancient Roman and Greek influences remained popular.
“White” jewelry became popular as plentiful deposits of platinum were discovered in Russia and improved smelting technology made it possible for jewelers to work in the noble metal. Platinum was seldom used by jewelers in earlier years owing both to its scarcity and high melting point. The jewelry trade took advantage of its rigid strength to create opulent openwork settings for increasingly brilliant diamonds. The old European cut was perfected, rounder and squatter than old mine. This took stone-cutting one step closer to the mathematically perfect round brilliant cut, which is the most popular diamond cut today. The now-iconic square Asscher cut was patented in 1902.
Hot on the heels of platinum, the alloy mixture that produces white gold was formulated and patented in 1915 in New York City. With Europe in the grip of WW1, the American jewelry industry was poised to become a world leader and innovator.