Georgian Champlevé Enamel Mourning Ring IMO Anna Stapleton

$800.00
About Details History

This Georgian mourning band was made to commemorate the death of Anna Stapleton. The enameling technique used to make a ring like this is called champlevé.  This method required the jeweler to cut away the gold of the band to form shapes, letters, or numbers (in this case it reads: "Anna Stapleton OB 9 Aug: 1795 AET: 78"), and then flood the recessed space with enamel, which would then be fired to harden it. This ring features black enamel in relatively good condition, and two thin bands of white enamel--possibly indicating that the deceased was unmarried--in worn condition. The inside of the ring features full British hallmarks, including the bust of of the mad King George III, the lion passant to denote 22k gold, the letter "u" for the year 1795, and the maker's mark "WH".

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  • Materials: 22k yellow gold, enamel
  • Age: c. 1795
  • Condition: Good
  • Size: US 8.5, cannot be sized
  • Location: To see this piece in person, visit our shop in Nolita, New York.
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GEORGIAN (1714 - 1837) The Georgian Era was named for the English Kings George I, II, III and IV. Within the powerful nations of France and England, fine gemstone jewelry was worn only by the extremely wealthy, and the styles were regal and ornate. As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut”, a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut. The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste—an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass—was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.
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more

About Details History

This Georgian mourning band was made to commemorate the death of Anna Stapleton. The enameling technique used to make a ring like this is called champlevé.  This method required the jeweler to cut away the gold of the band to form shapes, letters, or numbers (in this case it reads: "Anna Stapleton OB 9 Aug: 1795 AET: 78"), and then flood the recessed space with enamel, which would then be fired to harden it. This ring features black enamel in relatively good condition, and two thin bands of white enamel--possibly indicating that the deceased was unmarried--in worn condition. The inside of the ring features full British hallmarks, including the bust of of the mad King George III, the lion passant to denote 22k gold, the letter "u" for the year 1795, and the maker's mark "WH".

less
more

  • Materials: 22k yellow gold, enamel
  • Age: c. 1795
  • Condition: Good
  • Size: US 8.5, cannot be sized
  • Location: To see this piece in person, visit our shop in Nolita, New York.
less
more
GEORGIAN (1714 - 1837) The Georgian Era was named for the English Kings George I, II, III and IV. Within the powerful nations of France and England, fine gemstone jewelry was worn only by the extremely wealthy, and the styles were regal and ornate. As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut”, a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut. The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste—an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass—was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.
less
more