This gorgeous opal and diamond ring has the look and heavy detail of a late Victorian piece, but interestingly it is hallmarked for 1914, which makes it an Edwardian era throwback to the more ornate styles of the previous century. Fashioned in 18k yellow gold, the ring features a gallery adorned with a fluid scroll work and foliate elements at the shoulders. The face of the ring is set with two approximately .08ct old European cut diamonds and a single fiery opal cabochon. Please note that one diamond has a very small chip along one crown facet. This minor blemish is visible under magnification, but not to the naked eye.
EDWARDIAN (1900 - 1910)
The Edwardian era gets its name from King Edward VII’s brief reign at the beginning of the 20th century. His Danish bride Alexandra was young, lovely, and fashionable; with a taste for trendy pieces rendered in diamonds and pearls. The jewelry tended toward airy lightness, often in the form of lacy filigree. The world was changing rapidly, but lots of the jewelry still reflected the Victorian ideals of decorum and femininity. Ancient Roman and Greek influences remained popular.
“White” jewelry became popular as plentiful deposits of platinum were discovered in Russia and improved smelting technology made it possible for jewelers to work in the noble metal. Platinum was seldom used by jewelers in earlier years owing both to its scarcity and high melting point. The jewelry trade took advantage of its rigid strength to create opulent openwork settings for increasingly brilliant diamonds. The old European cut was perfected, rounder and squatter than old mine. This took stone-cutting one step closer to the mathematically perfect round brilliant cut, which is the most popular diamond cut today. The now-iconic square Asscher cut was patented in 1902.
Hot on the heels of platinum, the alloy mixture that produces white gold was formulated and patented in 1915 in New York City. With Europe in the grip of WW1, the American jewelry industry was poised to become a world leader and innovator.