Rose Cut Stuart Crystal Ribbon Slide with Crowned Skull and Cherubs

$3,750.00
About Details History

In the late 17th century, a ribbon slide such as this one would have been worn as a bracelet or in the hair. The existence of memento mori and mourning jewelry predate this c. 1690 slide, but tribute jewels such this as mark the beginning of the business of mourning jewelry and the rise in popularity of elaborate hair work. This piece follows in the tradition of Stuart crystal, which was originally worn by loyalists to the Stuart monarchy after the the execution of King Charles in 1649. The first Stuart crystal jewelry featured either the likeness of the martyred king, a lock of his hair (for the lucky few), or a cipher of his initials under faceted rock crystal (hence "Stuart crystal"). Later pieces feature a foiled back with a hair ground and initials belonging to the owner or a loved one. This lovely rose cut crystal piece made toward the end of the 17th century is an example the next evolution of Stuart crystal, and was made in memory of a man (or woman) not the king. The slide features a background of simply woven hair, two cherubs jointly holding a crown above a skull (which symbolizes a connection to royalty), and a gold cipher reading "IF". The mourning scene is encased is 9k yellow gold and rose cut rock crystal. Side note: this slide would look absolutely incredible converted into a ring.

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  • Materials: 9k gold, rose cut rock crystal, hair
  • Age: c. 1690
  • Condition: Excellent
  • Size: 1.7cm x 1.5cm
  • Location: To see this piece in person, please visit our shop in Nolita, New York.
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GEORGIAN (1714 - 1837) The Georgian Era was named for the English Kings George I, II, III and IV. Within the powerful nations of France and England, fine gemstone jewelry was worn only by the extremely wealthy, and the styles were regal and ornate. As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut”, a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut. The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste—an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass—was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.
less
more

About Details History

In the late 17th century, a ribbon slide such as this one would have been worn as a bracelet or in the hair. The existence of memento mori and mourning jewelry predate this c. 1690 slide, but tribute jewels such this as mark the beginning of the business of mourning jewelry and the rise in popularity of elaborate hair work. This piece follows in the tradition of Stuart crystal, which was originally worn by loyalists to the Stuart monarchy after the the execution of King Charles in 1649. The first Stuart crystal jewelry featured either the likeness of the martyred king, a lock of his hair (for the lucky few), or a cipher of his initials under faceted rock crystal (hence "Stuart crystal"). Later pieces feature a foiled back with a hair ground and initials belonging to the owner or a loved one. This lovely rose cut crystal piece made toward the end of the 17th century is an example the next evolution of Stuart crystal, and was made in memory of a man (or woman) not the king. The slide features a background of simply woven hair, two cherubs jointly holding a crown above a skull (which symbolizes a connection to royalty), and a gold cipher reading "IF". The mourning scene is encased is 9k yellow gold and rose cut rock crystal. Side note: this slide would look absolutely incredible converted into a ring.

less
more

  • Materials: 9k gold, rose cut rock crystal, hair
  • Age: c. 1690
  • Condition: Excellent
  • Size: 1.7cm x 1.5cm
  • Location: To see this piece in person, please visit our shop in Nolita, New York.
less
more
GEORGIAN (1714 - 1837) The Georgian Era was named for the English Kings George I, II, III and IV. Within the powerful nations of France and England, fine gemstone jewelry was worn only by the extremely wealthy, and the styles were regal and ornate. As imperialist war raged in the Americas, Caribbean, Australia, and beyond, the jewelry industry benefited: colored gems from all over the empire became newly available. A mix of artistic influences from around Europe contributed to the feminine, glittering jewels of the era. Dense, ornate Baroque motifs from Italy showed up in Georgian jewelry, as did French Rococo’s undulating flora and fauna. Neoclassical style made use of Greek and Roman motifs, which were newly popular due to the recently uncovered ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Lapidary methods improved: the dome-shaped rose cut was popular, as was the “old mine cut”, a very early iteration of today’s round brilliant cut. The boat-shaped marquise diamond cut was developed around this time, supposedly to imitate the smile of Louis XV’s mistress, the marquise de Pompadour. Paste—an imitation gemstone made from leaded glass—was newly developed in the 18th century, and set into jewelry with the same creativity and care as its more precious counterparts. Real and imitation gems were almost always set in closed-backed settings, lined on the underside with thin sheets of foil to enhance the color of the stone and highlight it's sparkle. This makes Georgian rings tough for modern women to wear, especially on an everyday basis: genteel, jewelry-owning ladies of the 18th century were not famous for working with their hands like we are. Nor did they wash their hands as much as we do. Water will virtually ruin a foiled setting, so take special care with your Georgian ring. Very little jewelry from this period is still in circulation, and it's very difficult to repair.
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more