After handling thousands of 19th-century lockets, I can say with some certainty (though without a fully coherent explanation why) that this piece is American-made.
First, the construction—rustic and no-nonsense. No fiddly lenses on the interior frames, no overly delicate flourishes—just businesslike engraving and minimal twisted wirework. It’s built to last, not to fuss over.
Second, the technology. The locket holds gem tintypes, a photographic format that was particularly American. Unlike the more formal cabinet cards and cartes de visite favored in England, gem tintypes were mass-produced in U.S. studios, popularized during the Civil War, and widely used by working- and middle-class women who wanted keepsakes of their loved ones.
American women embraced gem tintypes for their intimacy, accessibility, and durability. Life in 19th-century America was neither easy nor straightforward, and your jewelry had to be as tough as you were.
thedetails
- Materials
14k gold (tests), glass lenses, tintypes, new 14k gold chain
- Age
c. 1880
- Condition
Very good - minor surface wear commensurate with age and use
- Size
1 1/2" length including the bale, 7/8" width, 18" chain
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Aboutthe
VictorianEra
1837 — 1901
The Victorians were avid consumers and novelty-seekers, especially when it came to fashion, and numerous fads came and went throughout the 19th century. In jewelry, whatever fashion choices Queen V. made reverberated throughout the kingdom. The Romantic period reflected the queen’s legendary love for her husband, Albert.
Jewelry from this period featured joyful designs like flowers, hearts, and birds, all which often had symbolic meaning. The queen’s betrothal ring was made in the shape of a snake, which stood for love, fidelity, and eternity. The exuberant tone shifted after Prince Albert passed away in 1861, marking the beginning of the Grand Period. Black jewelry became de rigeur as the Queen and her subjects entered “mourning,” which at the time represented not just an emotional state, as we conceive of it today, but a specific manner of conduct and dress. She wore the color black for the remainder of her life, and we see lots of black onyx, enamel, jet, and gutta percha in the jewelry from this time. Finally, during the late Victorian period, which transitioned along with a rapidly changing world into the “Aesthetic Movement”, there was a return to organic and whimsical motifs: serpents, crescent moons, animals, and Japonaisserie designed for the more liberated “Gibson Girl”. During the second half of the 19th century, America entered the global jewelry market, with Tiffany and Co. leading the way. Lapidaries continued to perfect their techniques, and the old European cut emerged toward the end of the Victorian period. The discovery of rich diamond mines in South Africa made the colorless stones more accessible than ever before.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.
