The earliest form of jewelry is the hoop earring dating to the third millennium BC in the Ancient Sumerian city of Ur (modern day Iraq). It is thought that when the city fell in 1750 BC, the Sumerians dispersed across the continent taking their metal working prowess and proclivity for hoops with them. We see hoop styles across all regions in antiquity, and though the style experienced waxing and waning of popularity in the more recent past - let's say from the Renaissance to the present day - the hoop earring has always held it's own in the aesthetic canon of ear ornamentation. These chic vintage oval hoops made in 18k yellow gold are a 1970s variation on the ancient style.
RETRO (1935 - 1945)
World War II marked the shift from Art Deco to retro, as yet another war (and the subsequent materials rations) dictated what was available on the jewelry market. Platinum was reserved for military use, so jewelers began relying heavily on gold and experimenting with colored alloys and different finishes. Retro jewelry designs are marked by asymmetry, motifs borrowed from industrial design, and exaggerated scale.
Thanks to a hugely successful advertising campaign begun in the 1940s and funded by De Beers, the phrase “a diamond is forever” was coined and diamond rings were touted as the ONLY acceptable type of engagement ring. Carefully worded ads instructed men on how to choose a stone, and what to spend (“two months salary!”). The Gemological Institute of America developed the so-called “4Cs” of diamond grading, which was a scientific system for measuring the color, clarity, cut and carat weight of every single diamond.
The costume jewelry industry, having only been established a few decades before, began to flourish. Centered in Providence, Rhode Island, and surrounding New England towns, companies like Trifari, Monet, Hobe, and Vendome prospered as consumers gobbled up inexpensive machine-made jewels.