The 11th Hussars were established in 1715 as a cavalry regiment of the British army. The regiment famously counted Prince Albert among their ranks and were nicknamed the "Cherry Pickers" and the "Cherry Bums" for their bright crimson trousers. This WWI era locket commemorates the military service of Sackville George Pelham, the 5th Earl of Yarborough. Pelham fought as a lieutenant in 11th Hussars during WWI and promoted to captain the year after this locket was made, in 1916. The locket is engraved "Lt Hon Sackville G Pelham" and features the badge of the Hussars along with the year, 1915, and their motto: "Treu und Fest" or "Loyal and Sure".
ART DECO (1915 – 1940)
Art Deco is highly recognizable for its minimalism and futurism. Simultaneous art movements—Cubism, Bauhaus—informed the geometric style, along with “exotic” foreign influences like the Ballet Russe. Motifs like ziggurats and sunbursts, stripped of visual clutter, conveyed the optimism of an increasingly technological world.
In jewelry, the predominant use of white metals let colorful gems take center stage. Stones that were opaque and true in color, like lapis lazuli, onyx, jade, coral, and opal were worked into designs alongside more precious and brilliant gems, like diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. Extra-long beaded necklaces and tasseled “sautoirs” followed the narrow flapper silhouette.
The baguette cut was an Art Deco innovation, and the decade saw increased use of other angular diamond cuts, like the precise caliber cut and the emerald cut. Synthetic gems, like sapphires, were celebrated as a scientific marvel. Marcel Tolkowsky, 21 years old at the time, published the design for the round brilliant cut in 1919.