THIS 18k GOLD coiled snake ring, assayed in Chester in 1918, was made in a moment of profound transition. By then, Chester was producing jewelry that echoed Edwardian and late Victorian tastes, but often in simpler, symbolic forms—a reflection of wartime austerity and shifting social norms. The Great War had drawn many craftsmen into service, and jewelry production slowed. Surviving pieces from this period were likely made by fewer hands, sometimes using recycled gold. The snake, a popular motif throughout the 19th century, carried enduring meanings of eternal love, protection, and renewal—fitting for a year shaped by both grief and relief at the end of war.
thedetails
- Materials
18k gold (marked)
- Age
Chester assay marks for 1918
- Condition
Very good
- Size
10, can be resized; 1/2" head, 3/8" shank
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Aboutthe
EdwardianEra
1900 — 1910
The jewelry tended toward airy lightness, often in the form of lacy filigree. The world was changing rapidly, but lots of the jewelry still reflected the Victorian ideals of decorum and femininity. Ancient Roman and Greek influences remained popular. “White” jewelry became popular as plentiful deposits of platinum were discovered in Russia and improved smelting technology made it possible for jewelers to work in the noble metal. Platinum was seldom used by jewelers in earlier years owing both to its scarcity and high melting point. The jewelry trade took advantage of its rigid strength to create opulent openwork settings for increasingly brilliant diamonds. The old European cut was perfected, rounder and squatter than old mine. This took stone-cutting one step closer to the mathematically perfect round brilliant cut, which is the most popular diamond cut today. The now-iconic square Asscher cut was patented in 1902. Hot on the heels of platinum, the alloy mixture that produces white gold was formulated and patented in 1915 in New York City. With Europe in the grip of WW1, the American jewelry industry was poised to become a world leader and innovator.
please note:Terms of Sale
Antiques can be returned unworn and in original condition within 10 days of delivery for an exchange or refund minus the cost of shipping. Once a piece has been altered, including ring re-sizing, it is FINAL SALE.
